BUSHES & JOINTS

Land Rover Rear Rear Trailing Arm Bushes - SUIT DISCO1, DEFENDER, & RRC

Lifetime manufacturers warranty on all SuperPro Bushes

This is the ONLY bush we recommend running with any vehicle running over factory amount of articulation

Land Rover Panhard Bushes - SUIT DISCO1, DISCO 2, DEFENDER, & RRC

• Pre 2002 - 14mm Bolt
• Post 2002 - 16mm Bolt

Lifetime manufacturers warranty on all SuperPro Bushes

This kit does BOTH ends of your Panhard rod

***PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU ARE IN OR NEAR A CHANGOVER YEAR***

ARE YOU PUSHING YOUR SUPERFLEX ARMED RIG TO ITS LIMITS ON A REGULAR BASIS, AND CHEWING YOUR LARGE NISSAN AXLE END BUSHES OUT?

Behold...Hybrid Polyelast Bushes!

With these bushes you should expect twice as many kms/hours of offroad use before they are due for replacement.

In most cases, expect a small improvement on max articulation of your arms as well (if your shock will support the extra travel)

• Sold as a set of 3x Hybrid Polyeyast bushes, AND 1x regular SuperPro bush for the small bush on the axle end of you passenger side Superflex arm
• The supplied smaller SuperPro bush we drill out from 14mm to the required 16mm required for Superflex arms into a Land Rover!!!

THESE ARE THE BUSHES FOR THE 38mm WIDE 4-BOLT SWAYBAR BRACKET USED IN OUR SWAYBAR SYSTEM, AS WELL AS ALL DEFNDER REAR SWAYBARS (STD)

SOLD AS PAIR

 

LIFETIME WARRANTY

HAVE YOU LIFTED YOUR VEHICLE???

If you have lifted you Land Rover Defender, Disco1, RRC your caster will be far from the factory spec of +3deg, making your vehicles steering feel...floaty, tram tracking wanting to follow undulations in the road surface...and generally steering like a unicycle.

The cure for this is to fit caster corrected bushes, OR caster corrected arms, OR have us slot your swivel balls. 

Addressing caster by way of bushes is the cheapest way - and most suited to vehicles running non-long travel suspension systems (lift only), as in a long travel system the bushes further hold up the long travel your trying to achieve out of the front end.

Perenties - as these in std form are 2" taller/lifted over a civilian Defender, their caster is as you guessed it...OUT! (they did not adress caster correction!) Pop a paid of caster bushes in an instantly improve your steering and the way the truck drives noticeably!

 

 

LEMFÖRDER - Top of their game

There is no doubt that Lemforder have got the reputation of being the toughest, and longest lasting tie rod end on the market for Land Rovers...and its a reputation well deserved in our opinion!

If you are looking for the longest lasting most reliable tie rod ends - then these are for you. Will outlast ANY cheaper greasable units by a long shot.

this is the ONLY tie rod end we recomend using with our Chromoly Track rods and Drag Links due to the superior strength of these

IF YOUR REPLACING ALL YOUR TIE ROD ENDS:

• DEFENDER: 2x RH & 1x LH
• DICOVERY 1 POST 93: 2x RH & 2x LH

Rear A Frame Ball & Joint Kit

To Suit:

• Land Rover Discovery Series 1 to 1998
• Land Rover Defender (ALL)
• Land Rover County/Perentie
• Range Rover 1972 to 1994

REPLACMENT BUSHES FOR YOUR TOUGH DOG PANHARD - LAND ROVER

PLEASE CONSTACT US IF YOU VEHCILE IS NEAR THE CHANGEOVER YEAR!

THESE BUSHES WILL CONVERT YOUR SPHERICAL BEARINGS TO LONGER LASTING POLYURETHANE BUSHES! 

• ONE BOX DOES ONE SHOCK
• WE ALSO MAKE OUR OWN LOWER FRONT SHOCK MOUNT BRACKETS TO SUIT - IF FITTING BILSTEIN 7100 TO YOUR D2

DO YOU HAVE A SET OF THE OLD SUPERIOR ENGINEERING TRAILING ARMS (see 2nd pic in the listing)?

• Bushes out of the packet are to suit 14mm Nissan bolt - HOWEVER, Land Rover use 16mm bolt at the axle..so these ones need to be drilled out to suit! Please select if you require pre-drilled in the options.

 

• The chassis end required no drilling and is 'out of the packet' 14mm

 

- AUSTRALIAN MADE -

Maxidrive's HD Units are greasable and adjustable...

• The ball is CNC machined from 4140 Chromoly at 950mPa tensile strength.

• The two seats which encircle the ball more completely than std units are CNC machined from self-lubricating industrial Nylon bearing material.

• A boot of moulded Nitrile made to Maxidrive spec keeps the grease in - and the dirt out!

• Pre-greased the unit is also supplied complete with heavy duty washer, castle nut & split pin.

• The unit is fully adjustable "in service" and if ever required, replacement ball and seats are available.

• The new 'High Ball" unit is also avail - suggested for vehicles with good suspension articulation. (Fitting Instructions included)

IN THIS LOCATION - WE RECOMEND ONLY USING OEM OR GENUINE LAND ROVER PART!

Steering Box Drop Arm Repair Kit Defender Discovery 1 Range Classic RBG000010

Steering Box Drop Arm Repair Kit to suit the following vehicles with Power Steering:

• Land Rover Defender 1983 on
• Range Rover Classic to VIN number JA612323
• Land Rover Discovery 1 1989-92 to VIN JA018109

2 YEAR MANAFACTURERS WARRANTY ON THESE OEM KITS

 

This is an WIDE ANGLE Adjustable & Greaseable A-Frame Ball Joint ready pressed into the housing to make it much easier for you to fit to your Land Rover, A frame joints can be very difficult to get out of the old housing and just as difficult to press the new one in, this is why we have done this ready assembled in the housing.

This A-Frame Ball Joint can be adjusted if you do find you get play.
To adjust, tighten the 19mm adjuster nut 1/4 turn at a time until the play has gone and knock over the lock tabs once done.
By greasing the a-frame ball joint you will prevent the adjuster nut from seizing up which is common with adjustable joints.

Gwynn is now replacing the Standard Rubber Boots on our A-Frame Ball Joints with UPGRADED polyurethane POLY BOOTS, He is doing this during assembly here as they are not as easy to change later once fitted on a vehicle. They are also pre greased.

A common problem with Rubber Boots these days is perishing/cracking, Rubber doesn’t seem to be what it used to be.
Polyurethane will not perish/crack like normal Rubber so will give a much longer service life.

 

Delphi Front and Rear Sway Bar Link/Bush (anti-roll bar link) to suit Land Rover Discovery 1, Defender, 110, Perentie and Range Rover Classic models. 

Two are required per axle.

Bushes included

These are the same front and rear.

This is a quality OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) sway bar link made in Turkey. 

4-HOLE DEFENDER REAR 

• For use with our offroad swaybar kit
• Sold as singles - (2req for the offroad swaybar kit)

Genuine Maxidrive replacement boot for all MAXIDRIVE A.Frame Balljoints

 

Lifetime manufacturers warranty on all SuperPro Bushes

• DEFENDER - ALL
  
• DISCOVERY 1989-1998 - Series 1
• RANGE ROVER 1985-1996 - Classic
• RANGE ROVER 1994-2002 - P38A

**NOTE** Please check your Upper A-Frame Arms, Late PUMA the brackets are welded on the A-Frame Cross Member and the bushes use M16 Bolts, this is approx 2009 onwards. Please check your Chassis Number is 9A766383 onwards.

2007 to approx 2009 either have Bolt On “Crows Feet” brackets on the A-Frame Cross Member or the brackets are welded onto the Cross Member, but use 3/4UNF Bolts, the part number you need to order for the earlier kit is SPF0128K (chassis Number is to 9A766382)
If you are unsure then you must check and measure your Upper A-Frame Bolts to see if they are 3/4 UNF (EARLY) or M16 (LATE)

REAR TRAILING ARM TO AXLE BUSH KIT (DOES BOTH SIDES)

SUIT: UP TO 2016 DEFENDER, PERENTIE, COUNTY, DICOVERY 1, & RRC

SUIT FACTORY ARMS, GWYN LEWIS ARMS, TERRAFIRMA ARMS, AND FAIRLY MUCH ALL AFTERMARKET ARMS

Tired of rubber boots splitting before the joint service life is up!??

The Polyurethane Track Rod End Boot KIT is the answer!

FITS:

• ALL Greasable Track Rod / Drag Link Ends, incl Delphi & Lemforder  (for Defender, Disco1, RRC,  Disco2 and P38),
• Swaybar links
• Defender Drop Arm Ball Joints.
  

This is a SINGLE replacement Track Rod End Boot made from Polyurethane.

A common problem with Rubber Track Rod End Boots these days is perishing/cracking, Rubber doesn’t seem to be what it used to be.
Polyurethane will not perish/crack like normal Rubber, giving a much longer service life.

These boots are Double Convoluted which allows them to move/flex more without stretching.

Fitting, you can remove and refit the coil clips by either using a small screwdriver to carefully wind the clip around the boot or using a zip tie to wind the coil clips around the boot.

Screwdriver:-
You need to carefully pick up one end of the larger coil clip using a small flathead screwdriver and then wind the clip around the original Rubber Boot to lift it out of its recess, your original coil clip can then be used to fit your new Poly Boot.
Fitment is the reverse, start by sitting one end of the coil clip into the recess and then wind it around the Poly Boot until the coil clip fits back into the recess.
Take care not to puncture the boot with the screwdriver.

Zip Tie:-
You need to carefully pick up one end of the larger coil clip using a small flathead screwdriver and then slip a small zip tie over the end of the clip, pull the zip tie to lift the clip out of its recess and wind it around and over the boot, your original coil clip can then be used to fit your new Poly Boot.
Fitment is the reverse, start by slipping the zip tie into the coil clip, sit one end of the coil clip into the recess and then pull the zip tie the opposite way to removal while winding around the boot until the clip sits back into its recess. (Pull the zip tie towards the Track Rod End body)

 

Tired of rubber boots splitting before the joint service life is up!??

The Polyurethane Track Rod End Boot KIT is the answer!

FITS:

• ALL  A-frame Ball Joints as fitted to Defender, Discovery 1 and Range Rover Classic INCLUDING MAXIDRIVE & GWYN LEWIS UNITS WE STOCK

A common problem with Rubber Boots these days is perishing/cracking, rubber doesn’t seem to be what it used to be.
Polyurethane will not perish/crack like normal Rubberproviding a much longer service life.

These boots are Double Convoluted which allows them to move/flex more without stretching.

Fitting, you can remove and refit the coil clips by either using a small screwdriver to carefully wind the clip around the boot or using a zip tie to wind the coil clips around the boot.

Screwdriver:-
You need to carefully pick up one end of the larger coil clip using a small flathead screwdriver and then wind the clip around the original Rubber Boot to lift it out of its recess, your original coil clip can then be used to fit your new Poly Boot.
Fitment is the reverse, start by sitting one end of the coil clip into the recess and then wind it around the Poly Boot until the coil clip fits back into the recess.
Take care not to puncture the boot with the screwdriver.

Zip Tie:-
You need to carefully pick up one end of the larger coil clip using a small flathead screwdriver and then slip a small zip tie over the end of the clip, pull the zip tie to lift the clip out of its recess and wind it around and over the boot, your original coil clip can then be used to fit your new Poly Boot.
Fitment is the reverse, start by slipping the zip tie into the coil clip, sit one end of the coil clip into the recess and then pull the zip tie the opposite way to removal while winding around the boot until the clip sits back into its recess. (Pull the zip tie towards the Track Rod End body)